Precious Stones And Its Settings

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Collet settings are used to hold faceted stones, and are made using a collet block. Col Iets can be used as a solid form, or pierced and carved to allow more light to enter the stone.Traditionally, collets are made from sheet metal, and you need to make a template in order to construct a cone that has the correct proportions for a particular piece of fashion jewelry .The shape bounded by GEFH is the template for the cone. Transfer this to metal and pierce it out, then form and solder the join closed. The cone can then be trued in a collet block — the taper of the cone will dictate whether a 17-degree or a 28-degree collet block and punch should be used.Collets can also be made from tubing that has been stretched and compressed in a collet block, but it is difficult to ensure that it stretches evenly and that the top and bottom surfaces stay true.Collets can be pierced or carved to create gaps, and this is one method for making claw settings. Gaps in the collet will allow more light to enter the stone, while solid collets will intensify the colours of pale stones

Placing the setting for fashion jewelry

Single collets can be applied to a range of jewelry forms, including earrings, pendants and rings. When set into a ring shank, the collet can be inserted into a fïled gap with the base of the collet sitting level with the inside of the shank; collets can also be soldered on top of a shank so that they stand proud. Multiple collets should have enough of a gap between their top edges so that the setting tooi can easily get in between.Soldering the collet in position will anneal it in preparation for setting the stone. Polish the inside of the setting before proceeding — it is important that the metal is reflective so that maximum light-play is achieved within the stone.

Seating the stone in a piece of fashion jewelry

Place the ring in a clamp, and file the top of the collet so that it is level. The stone’s girdle should sit halfway across the width of the collet wall. Use a bal! burr the same diameter as the stone to carve die seat — this will remove sufficient metal from the setting to allow it to be easily set and it should not need to be thinned.The collet is pushed over the stone in a similar way to bezel setting, working ‘north’, ‘south-east’ and ‘west’, before closing all the gaps and burnishing the metal flush. If sterling silver is being used and if the bezel wall is not of equal thickness, it may be necessary to ‘chase’ the metal over the girdle, using a small hammer to tap the pusher, giving it more force than would be possible by hand

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